Life. People. Journey.
Some virtues of my life. Places that I traveled though, feelings that I lived through, people that I met and colors that I saw.

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Signs and tests

12th of April 2010

Location: Ikitos
Music: Cranberries - Zombie
Mood: viajando mi destino

With almost zero power to carry by backpack I finally made it to Iquitos on the Amazon river. I’m totally exhausted, both morally and physically.

I guess, my fate wants to know when I’ll give up...

After I felt better I decided to stop wasting time. Even though I was pretty week I went to Atacama on a rental car. We spend several days on the Salt lake. During my last night there I woke up because I had tears and burning in my eyes. I realized that was because of the crystals of salt, which were cutting my eyes. I couldn’t wash them out so the next day I was partially blind. That s*** scared me more than the illness I had before. Though I didn’t panic. During the day of being partially blind the crystals melted again, so I was able to partially wash them out. Finally my eyes were completely clean after the salt came out by itself with my tears.


We couldn’t leave Uyuni on time because all the buses were postponed due to the elections. As a result, we couldn’t get on board of our triple-time expensive flight after we had a 12 hour ride to La Paz. The problem was that we didn’t get some stamps when we entered the country. In other words, we were treated as illegal emigrants. The issue could be solved by $100 bill but I refused to give the money because that wasn’t our fault.

Here is the point where I first met Bolivian bureaucracy. I tried to solve the problem peacefully in the beginning. However, I decided to act more aggressively after I realized that nobody gives a damn about me. I went really crazy with rising a scandal with breakthrough to the head of the airport. Of course, I wasn’t let get there. Well, I didn’t make them wait for my actions for a long time. I simply used my force to open automatic sliding doors to get an access to the closed area so that I could reach the office of the head from the other side. As a result, I was chased by the dudes in police uniform with handcuffs. In the end, I got to the head’s office, who promised us early morning flight. However, it smelled like an updog because I didn’t get the tickets to that flight, so I literally sat on the floor in front of the door to the office of the head of the airport. To be mentioned, I had sat that way and bothered each in- and out-coming person to that room till 12 am (8 hours in a row). When it was almost midnight the Bolivians became really unhappy of their decision to delay us.

I had a very shitty mood because we lost lots of time and we were behind our filming schedule. I even thought to leave all my plans and journeys for the sake of sitting at home, eating some dough dumplings, and watching TV. No, I’m serious! That was one of the toughest moments of all of my adventures in my entire life.

After I didn’t get my tickets from the border guard next day I initiated my argument with the airline company. At the very beginning they refused to give us seats in the plane based on our outdated tickets. When I lost all my hopes one of the workers gave us a life saving favor.  She was aware of our situation (I guess everybody in that airport was aware of our situation), so she gave us the seats for her personal responsibility.

So here I am: sitting in the airport, saying “Fuck Bolivia” and thinking of never ever coming back to this place…

After we arrived in Lima, took a cab and went on a night beach shore line I poked out my hand and caught fresh and warm (not cold!!) night wind. The cab driver turned on his radio, and a miracle happened. In stead of songs about El Corazon and other similar annoying stuff I heard real tasty rock with an English song. The music was loud and the dynamics were going to blow so I couldn’t understand a damn thing but... I swear to God, I felt like that song was completely about me! That was only about me and nobody else!!! For some reason I felt happy!

When I finally got to Miraflores I took some Peruvian pisco. I fell to my bed and another miracle happened! In stead of tons of blankets for keeping warm there was only one sheet!!! Noooo way!!! Can  you imagine that? That was a complete delight to sleep at night with only one sheet after you had covered with at least 5 blankets for one month. I reached the top levels of happiness and that made me think that the things not that as bad as I thought in the beginning…

Next day we took a bus and went to Nazca. Naaaazca!!! Well, my sweet anticipation was interrupted by the fact that some douchebag stole my camera!!! The important thing is that it was literally above my head, and I had constantly looked after it… I’m usually very cautious with my belongings, and I lose them very very seldom… so I couldn’t even imagine the way one could have taken it without being noticed… I started to think that all the things happening to me were signs… So this particular occasion freaked me out because I have no idea of its message…

When we finally arrived in Nasca I met Enrique there!!! Yeah baby!!! That’s my bro whom I made last year!!! My mood rapidly jumped up!

When I first entered the town, my attention was drawn by the huge numbers of soldiers and tanks on the streets. Enrique told me that 2 days ago (exactly when I should be in Nazca according to my initial plan) there were riots  between miners and internal military forces. He showed me a couple pictures of burned cars. There were lots of people killed. Those photos made me think of the nature of the delays in Bolivia. I’m pretty sure that we’d definitely dive in the heart of the riots for filming…

We spent the next couple days in Nazca.  We rented an airplane and flew above the fields filming the lines… We climbed the dune at night and surfed it in the morning… Then we were getting warm under the sun after having a walk in the mountains… Nazca, oh Nazca! I love you!

For some unexplained wonder (?) I contacted Don Lucco in Icitos! That was a wonder because I lost his contacts.  I decided to drink Ayahuasca with other shaman. However, things turned in favor of my preferences. So I’m going to his place in jungle tomorrow in order to have the ceremony of the holy liana…

After I drink the wine of the dead men tomorrow the shaman will take my soul and my body will plunge into coma. Tomorrow I’ll know the mystery of the past days. Tomorrow I’ll meet Ayahuasca again. Tomorrow I’ll meet the ones I haven’t seen for a long time. Tomorrow I’ll die and will be born again. Tomorrow...

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Nagora, Khmel'nyts'kyi
Ah... When will you come back and will stay happy with your sweet family and remind all these days as your dream.
Love you, praying for you.